*** Friday, 25Aug06 ***
I have been photographing the life guards at the hotel pool because they
are so handsome. Recently I decided to give them a copy of the pix of
them I liked best and the effect has been magnetic. They are blown away
by the pix (which I print in color on about 8 by 10 paper). I am now a
celebrity at the pool. They all know my name and treat me like an important
person.
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Haythom, Ahmed
No. 2, Ahmed No. 1, Regab and their boss. |
They are nice guys and I am even learning their names -- not easy here
since nothing is familiar. I used to photograph them surreptitiously but
now I tell them the poses I want and they cooperate because they want
pictures of themselves. No less than two of them have given me Egyptiana
(tourist junk) as a thank you. I got a small Horus statue from Regeb --
even before I took his picture. At this rate, I could end up with a ton
of free crap before I leave.
I am beginning to count the days till I leave, October 1. It's just over
a month now. I have been working hard all the time here but more on other
people's problems and that is a problem since, at least technically, I
will be judge by my deliverables -- not the work I actually did. I have
to get this part of my work here straightened out.I couldn't control myself
and showed Regeb, Ahmed No. 2's picture. He was so impressed he asked
me for a copy and told me that Achmed#2 was off for a week. These pictures
have certainly put me on the map at the pool.
*** Sunday, 27Aug06 ***
I am officially counting the days until my departure on October 1. Given
that Oct 1 is a Sunday and I would be leaving at 12:30 A.M. I plan on
changing my departure to Friday morning or maybe Thursday morning.
I asked Paul if he would take a package for me to the States and mail
it. He replied, "Yes, but I don't know where I am going." Possibly
a more prophetic statement than he realized.
*** Monday, 28Aug06 ***
My photographs of pool staff have become a minor problem: everyone wants
one. They literally line up to ask for pix. How do I shut this down without
offending people?
*** Wednesday, 30Augch06 ***
This morning there were some pleasant clouds in the sky. Clouds here are
very unusual. After five months still seems quite odd -- if in a pleasant
way.
*** Thursday, 31Aug06 ***
Thank god it's Thursday!
I awoke to an actual cloud cover today. I could hardly believe it! This
is the first time in five months! I assume it will burn off but it moderates
the temperature in the morning and so is very nice.
I had another cheese omelet disaster this A.M. They ended up sprinkling
small chunks of cheese on my cheese-less cheese omelet. I just don't get
it.
Tonight was Judie's apartment warming party. I went with Phil and his
wife and a thoroughly disbelieving Paul but I led the way and we got there
for minimal cost (20 LE).
The party was nice, Julie and Lucas put themselves out to make everyone
feel at home. I took some pictures but not many. I thought it would be
interesting to put together a very brief video of the party so check out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP5bAGoHmek
for a two minute video.
*** Saturday, 02Sep06 ***
The heat wave that has been continuous since the end of June has finally
broken. Temperatures have fallen from a steady 37 C. (99 F.), day in and
day out to 32 C. (90 F.) and -- strangest of all -- there are clouds in
the sky! There were no clouds to speak of since I arrived at the beginning
of April so they seem anomalous now. I even forgot that clouds cast shadows
that moderate the effect of the sun so the clouds are a welcome addition
to the weather. They appeared for the first time only in the A.M. Now
they hang around all day long. Before the clouds the only variety in the
weather was the morning mist which slowly grew in its dawn intensity but
was always burned away by the strength of the sun.
Men here really like mustaches and a high percentage sport them.
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Haytham, one
of the lifeguards. |
The photo thing is getting tiring. On the one had they shower attention
on me -- when they see me at the pool each life guard comes over to me
and shakes my hand -- on the other there is always someone else who wants
a picture. This time it was the one not-so-good-looking guy at the pool
desk. And the food server guy -- did I mention him? So I took a group
shot of the life guards and one of the food service guy and hopefully
this will be the end.
While walking, a guy shouted out at me, "You walk like an Egyptian!"
and I kept walking like an Egyptian, as fast as I could. The line was
one that is regularly used by touts to start a conversation and get you
into their shop so they can wear you down and get you to buy some floral
essences.
While waiting for the car to the office, a woman working in a different
area came over to the table and told the story of how an Egyptian man
came over to her and started a conversation. Before long she was in his
store and completely fascinated with his collection of perfume essences.
She told us how they were made from grinding thousands of flowers and
how the aroma was extracted (she called it a "smell"). She described
how he put a dab of the essence onn her wrist and how wonderful it all
was. She did buy some (but didn't say how much she paid). She was a happy
customer, completely thrilled with the experience. Surely, it takes all
kinds.
In the evening I went to Taboura Restaurant and had the Steak in Pepper
Sauce with no vegetables -- that meant more French fries so I didn't complain.
The steak is distinctly mediocre and would be a lot better if it were
ground into a patty but the pepper sauce is a delight.
*** Sunday, 03Sep06 ***
Egypt gets a lot more climate and a lot less weather than New England.
The weather (I should call it climate) changes little from day to day
so I miss the variation that is so New England. The average temperature
has fallen which is quite an improvement.
Does Egypt ever get cold?
It can get to the low sixties here and everyone nearly shivers to death.
No one has any heating so it really seems cold to them.
*** Monday, 04Sep06 ***
I had an early dinner with Richard at La Bodega in Zamalek. I ordered
beef in peppercorn sauce and they brought me beef in mushroom sauce but
for the very first time in Egypt -- the VERY first time -- the beef was
tender. A very delightful first!
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The Cairo Tower
at night. |
At my request we stopped in "Drinkies" -- you guessed it! --
for a case of 1/2 liter Heineken cans and a small bottle of vodka. I don't
get to Drinkies very often so I perhaps overdid it but a desperate man
will do what needs to be done. Richard was the perfect gentleman (the
taller, stronger, younger -- and yes, handsomer -- gentleman) and carried
the case of Heineken while I led the way across the street holding the
black-bagged vodka.
We (well, I, Richard having hands busy) flagged a cab and I gave our destination
to the driver and said, "Ten pounds," to which he said, "Fifteen
pounds," to which I said, "Come on! You know the fare is five
pounds!" to which he laughed and said, "OK". So we got
in the smallish cab and the tallish Richard and the case of Heineken took
up the whole back seat so I took the front seat. The driver went forward
and leaned over to me and said, with a twinkle in his eye, "Ten pounds
plus two cans of beer."
The driver took the less direct route that brought us over the Qasr al-Nil
Bridge but that let him turn on the street directly in front of the hotel.
I have frequently been dumped on the Nile Corniche (pedestrian walkway)
in front of the hotel but then I had to negotiate the crossing of the
high speed traffic lanes which can be heart-renderingly scary. Our driver
not only brought us to a safe access to the hotel, he insisted on going
through the delays of security to drop us off directly in front of the
rotating hotel entrance doors.
This is but one instance of how nice Egyptians have been to me. I should
have given him two beers in gratitude. But, after all, beer is really
important.
But the trip was not over. Richard quietly acquiesced to my carrying the
plastic wrapped case of beer through security. Now I was prominently carrying
12 kilos of low grade liquid alcohol and a swaying bag of not-so-low-grade
vodka through hotel security. Fortunately, these guys have seen everything
-- including me struggling in with cases of Heineken before. (After all,
I have been here more than five months!)
With considerable aplomb, the Tourism Police person took the case from
me and demonstrated its heft while looking me in the eye with no expression
in his face except for the suppressed smile. He put it on the other side
of the metal detector and said, "Welcome". The other guards
were equally discrete -- and amused.
So I got the beer into my room and into the half-fridge and imagined what
it would be like in twenty-four hours. For now, there was the vodka. And
so another day ended in Cairo.
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