--Wednesday, 24 January 01--
Smile called me at home to say that he had guests (Kimeta's friends) and would come over after they left and he did. We had a pleasant time. I am going to miss him and his homespun wisdom: "Don't tell them about the summer! Wait until you come back!"

He told me that the hill just south of me is "Tasligia" and the one to the north is "Vilnaia." This city has more neighborhoods than I realized.


--Thursday, 25 January 01--
The 13th gray, overcast day in a row. The big thing about today was that for the first time you could actually distinguish individual clouds here and there against an overall flat gray sky. Big deal.

Despite Smile's advice I sent an email to Kate and Tony saying that my arthritis was a reminder that I would not live forever and that I would be taking the summer off.


--Friday, 26 January 01--
Another hectic day. So what else is new?

Phrases: mud spattered existence, the ointments of my old age, the dogs barking outside, the generators hum/roar sporadically but steadily

At the Kukri John told me that he had run out of money on his reconstruction and that winter was nearly over so he would leave things be until the fall. He also said that he had finally obtained permission to proceed with construction but it had to be signed by an international since the Albanians who might have signed claimed that they would be threatened if they did sign. The Kukri is the only place in Kosovo where Serbs and Albanians can mix and this does not sit well with extremists of either side.


--Saturday, 27 January 01--
A very mild day today. I actually caught sight of a bit of blue sky. It was in the east over the hills. By the afternoon there were even a few moments of sunlight.

A sample photograph. Do you find it an attractive pose?

On the way to work I walked by a photo studio, Photo Nesha, that had sample photos in a glass covered case outside the door. Several people were featured including a young man in his early twenties. The odd thing was a picture of the young man blowing bubble gum bubbles. To my mind, more bizarre than attractive. And even if someone paid for the picture, what kind of statement about its esthetics was the studio making?

Smile came by at 1 PM for lunch. We went to the Eastern Road and had another wonderful meal of spicy dried beef, sweet and sour peppery beef and chicken with peanuts. Smile is getting better with using chop sticks, he is approaching proficiency. And he likes the food. Albanian food has no spicy dishes but he always wants a part of the spiciest dishes. And he eats everything on his plate.

Beyond the food there was a very pleasant bonding. We enjoy each other's company. Smile give me advice about important decisions in my life and I do him the same favor. Mostly we ignore each others recommendations but we are sincerely interested in each others opinions. I wouldn't dream of taking a major decision until I had rejected what Smile had to say about it.


--Wednesday, 31 January 01--
Colder this AM.

Smile came by for lunch and we went for Chinese food. The spicy thin strips of dried beef were not as good as usual and I told the manager. The chicken with peanuts and the sweet and sour peppery beef were as good as usual. Smile told me that it was an Albanian saying that you had "nice legs" if you arrive somewhere and many people arrive after you do.

For the third night in a row I got the IHT and sat in the Kukri first reading the paper and then doing the crossword. Actually got a lot of tonight's puzzle.


--Friday, 02 February 01--
I remarked that Prishtina in a snow storm is almost pretty. Glenn contradicted me and said, "No, its not!" So much for romanticism but then Glenn never was a romantic -- it would have made him a lousy revenue forecaster.

Smile sneaked out of work to come by at 10 pm to say goodbye, quite the honor considering the risk it implied he was taking.


--Saturday, 03 February 01--
I told Tony the result of the meeting with Ali and recommended that he go to the Treasury and personally announce Hanife's temporary appointment as office manager. He said he would.

Slept to 9, at work at 10, gave my keys to Ram, said goodbye to everyone and went with Smile to my apartment. Got my bags and dropped Smile off at his place and kissed Kimeta goodbye. She had a gift for me which was nice. It was only a 55 minute drive to the border and another 20 minutes to Skopje.

I registered at the Rose Diplomatique hotel, ate a the downtown McDonalds, found the Golden Road and went back to the hotel only to find Eevo on duty. I read the Herald Tribune and he chatted with me. He remembered me from July and seemed much more eager to talk than at our first encounter. It was an interesting conversation though it became apparent that he doesn't like Albanians. His opinions reminded me of the nice lady who ran a B&B in Belfast and who had regaled me the "facts" about the Catholics, how they were lazy, shiftless, no good bums who only wanted to have babies and stay on welfare. Does this remind you of any other group?

Susan Michael came by at 6 PM and we walked to the Golden Road (the sister restaurant of the one in Prishtina) and had dinner -- this time including sweet and sour pork which is not available in Kosovo. She told me about experiences in Macedonia and I shared mine from Kosovo. It was delightful to see and chat with an old friend.


--Sunday, 04 February 01--
I had a hard time sleeping -- just like my last return trip. My arthritis was resurgent again. Took a hot shower with plenty of water and loved it. I was picked up on time and was driven on a divided highway (there are none in Kosovo) to the airport. I was in business class to Vienna so I enjoyed a small bottle of Kupferberg Gold champagne as a celebration of my departure. It was 7:45 am and I was on my way home.

Joe